Black Haircare
Black Haircare
It's more than just hair
Black Haircare
- Hair Porosity
- Hair Typing
- The Method
- Black Owned Hair Products
- Youtube Videos on Natural Black Haircare
- Websites on Black Hair
Hair Porosity
Low Porosity
With low porosity hair, the cuticle of the hair shaft is extremely closed. (Wondering what low porosity hair is? We got you.) This doesn't allow much room for water to come into the hair shaft. This means that anything that creates a barrier between the hair and water only makes it more difficult to fully hydrate the hair. For this reason, layering your water-based hair products on before the oil helps them fully absorb into the hair. Sealing natural hair with lighter oils like Jojoba Oil and Argan Oil is ideal - you can even spray on a hair oil to damp hair with a spray bottle for light coverage all over. These oils both absorb to aid moisture retention while washing off easily to keep your hair prepped to receive moisture.
Medium Porosity
Depending on your hair porosity, the LOC method can be your secret weapon against dry hair. Medium porosity hair often has just enough porosity to capture moisture, but the cuticle is just closed enough that it doesn't escape easily. On the other hand, high porosity and low porosity hair have the most complex relationship with hydration, requiring a little more love and effort to aid in moisture retention.
High Porosity
Those with high porosity, healthy hair have the opposite need. High porosity hair absorbs water easily, but it also loses water quickly. This hair type benefits from heavier oils such as Olive Oil, Castor Oil, and Avocado Oil. Using a heavier oil will seal in hydration to prevent it from escaping the hair shaft. A water-based Styling Cream that contains yummy hair oils hydrates while it seals.
Testing
If you're unsure about your own hair's porosity, try a strand test. Take a strand of hair and place it in a glass of water. If the hair strand floats to the top, your hair hasn't truly absorbed the water in the glass and you likely have low porosity hair. If the hair strand sinks to the bottom, then you likely have high porosity hair. (This test works best after you have shampooed your hair. Product build-up on your hair shaft can mimic low porosity hair and give unreliable results.) Another thing to note, different strands in your hair can have different porosities. Even on one strand you can have varying porosities. If you color or heat style your hair this can affect your cuticle and change your hair's porosity. So make an educated guess.
Source: Everything to Know About the LOC Method from Pattern by Tracee Ellis Ross
Hair Type Chart: How to Find Your Curl Pattern with Pictures
There are multiple hair typing systems - including the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, LOIS, and FIA's Hair Typing System. We don't endorse or recommend any particular hair typing system. However, we recognize that the system created by Andre Walker is substantially more well-known, and communicated than the other hair typing systems. Note: This doesn't imply that Andre Walker's system is necessarily the best or most accurate.
Disclaimer: It's very easy to incorrectly determine your hair type if you only look at the pictorial representations that have been provided. Please don't rule out a particular hair type simply because your hair doesn't look like the pictures below.
Andre Walker Hair Typing System
Type 1: Straight Hair
Type 1 Straight Hair: Generally speaking, Type 1 hair is straight; however, Andre categorizes this hair type into three very specific segments - Type 1A, Type 1B, and Type 1C.
- Type 1A hair is described as fine, very thin, and soft with a noticeable shine.
- Type 1B hair is medium-textured and has more body than Type 1A hair.
- Type 1C hair is the most resistant to curly styling and relatively coarse compared to other Type 1 hair types.
Type 2: Wavy Hair
Type 2 Wavy Hair: Type 2 is wavy hair that usually isn't overly oily or very dry. The thought is that Type 2 hair falls right in the middle of Type 1 and Type 3.
- Type 2A hair is fine and thin. It is relatively easy to handle from a styling perspective because it can easily be straightened or curled.
- Type 2B hair characteristically has natural waves that tend to adhere to the shape of your head.
- Type 2C hair will frizz easily, and it is fairly coarse.
Type 3: Curly Hair
Type 3 Curly Hair: Curly hair textures have a definite "S" shaped curl pattern. Since the cuticle doesn't lay flat, you will notice that curly hair isn't nearly as shiny as Type 1 (straight hair) or Type 2 (wavy hair) hair types.
- Type 3A hair is very shiny and loose.
- Type 3B hair has a medium amount of curls, ranging from bouncy ringlets (spiral-like loose curls of hair) to tight corkscrews (spiral-shaped corkscrew curls).
- Type 3C hair isn't a part of the Andre Walker Hair Typing System. Please see the "what's missing" section below for more information.
Type 4: Kinky Hair
Type 4 Kinky Hair: Type 4 is "kinky" or, more appropriately, full of tight coils (tightly curled hair). Typically, Type 4 hair is also extremely wiry and fragile.
Oftentimes, it appears to be coarse. However, it is really very fine, with several thin hair strands densely packed together.
Note that type 4 hair is one of the most common hair types found in black hair (African American hair).
- Type 4A hair is full of tight coils. It has an "S" pattern when stretched, much like Type 3 curly hair.
- Type 4B hair has a less defined pattern of curls and looks more like a "Z" as the hair bends with very sharp angles.
- Type 4C hair isn't a part of the Andre Walker Hair Typing System. Please see the "what's missing" section below for more information.
- Type 4D hair is an emerging classification. It isn't a part of the original Andre Walker Hair Typing System, although it's become quite popular on social media and hair care forums. More details are available in the "what's missing" section below.
You'll notice that Type 3C, Type 4C, and 4D hair types aren't mentioned in the discussion above, that's because they were not included in the original Andre Walker system.
Type 3C was created after Andre Walker released his hair typing system by a community member at NaturallyCurly.com.
The prevailing thought was that the original hair typing system left this hair type out. Consequently, Type 3C hair has been defined as tight curls or coils that look like corkscrews.
Type 4C, like Type 3C, isn't an actual hair type, according to Andre Walker's Hair System.
His comments are actually very simple regarding Type 4 (Kinky) hair - if you can see a definite curl pattern, then you have Type 4A hair. If you can't identify a defined, specific curl pattern, then your hair type is 4B.
LOIS Hair Typing System
Hair Strand Sizes
Identifying your hair strand within the LOIS system starts with using a strand of frayed thread. One piece of a frayed thread (like a piece of sewing thread) is used as a proxy to determine the size of your hair strand.
The general thought (according to the LOIS hair typing system) is that a piece of thread is approximately the size of a medium-sized strand of hair.
- Smaller than a piece of sewing thread = Thin, fine hair strands
- Size of a piece of sewing thread = Medium hair strands
- Larger than a piece of sewing thread = Think hair strands
Hair Textures
- Thready - This thready hair texture has a low sheen and a bright shine when the hair is stretched. This hair texture should have low frizz and get wet easily. Even though this hair texture wets easily, the water will dry out very quickly.
- Wiry - This hair texture has a sparkly glossy appearance with very little shine and low frizz. When the wiry hair texture is wet, the water will bead up or bounce off the hair strands. This hair texture is more difficult to get fully wet.
- Cottony - The cottony hair texture has a low sheen and bright shine when the hair is stretched and is usually highly frizzy. The cottony texture absorbs water very quickly; however, it doesn't get completely wet very fast.
- Spongy - The spongy hair texture absorbs water (like a sponge) and has a high sheen and low shine.
- Silky - The silky texture has a low sheen and a bright high shine. The level of expected frizz with this hair texture can vary substantially. Silky hair becomes completely wet very easily.
How to Find Your LOIS Hair Type
Examine a few of the most common types of hair on your head. If you have multiple hair types within the LOIS system, then you should begin by examining the most common hair type of your head.
Prior to examining your hair, be sure that it has been recently washed (rinsed in cold water) and doesn't have any hair products applied to it.
Another option is to wash a strand of hair that has been removed from the scalp and rinse it in cold water. Allow the individual hair strand to dry without touching it to get an accurate depiction of the LOIS hair type.
The NaturallyCurly Hair Typing System
Type 2: Wavy Hair
Type 2 hair has a wavy texture. It's not quite straight, yet it's not fully curly. It's a spectrum that ranges from thick, S-shaped waves mixed with curls to loose loops.
The type 2 texture tends to be flatter around the root, which makes it lay close to the head. It gets curlier from around the ears down.
Type 2A: Your waves have a tousled, loose hair texture. Due to the lack of definition and volume, hair products can easily weigh down your strands. If you want to maintain your curls, then use lighter hair products such as gels and mousses.
Type 2B: Your hair is straight at the roots, at least for the most part, and has S-shaped waves that have more definition from the mid-length down to the ends. The texture is medium and has a bit of frizz at the crown. If you want more definition as a 2B hair type, plop your hair when it's freshly washed.
Type 2C: Your waves are much more defined and start all the way at the roots with ringlets and curls. The texture is generally coarse or thick, which has a habit of frizzing. Diffuse your hair while it's wet, although your hair should not be soaking wet if you want more volume.
Type 3: Curly Hair
Type 3 hair ranges from tight, curly tendrils to light curls. It generally has a combination of different textures. Type 3 hair types are also defined as springy curls. They have more volume as well as height at the roots than type 2 hair types, which are wavy.
Type 3A: Your curls are big and loose. If you've ever seen sidewalk chalk, then you have a good gauge for the circumference of Type 3A curls.
They tend to be shiny as well and are S-shaped. If you want more curl definition, try to twirl tiny sections of curls around your finger when your hair is damp.
Type 3B: Your curls are springy, and you can find variants anywhere from corkscrews to ringlets. Your curls are also voluminous.
Where 3A hair types have curls that are approximately the circumference of sidewalk chalk, 3B hair types are comparable to a permanent marker.
3B hair is generally dense. Use humidity-blocking styling products. You might want to use styling milk if you want more definition but less frizz.
Type 3C: This is sometimes called "curly-coily" hair due to its density. It's made up of tightly packed corkscrew-like curls that tend to be as big around as a pencil.
3C tends to have the highest amount of volume, but also tends to have the most shrinkage. Stretch and enhance gently without heat with a flexi-rod set, twist-out, or a set of perm rods.
Type 4: Coily Hair
Coily hair is thin and fine, or wiry and coarse, and has coils that are densely packed. People often think coily hair is robust, but that is not the case!
It's the most fragile texture due to having the fewest cuticle layers protecting it from dryness. The top hair concerns with type 4 hair are avoiding tangles, maintaining moisture, and fighting off shrinkage.
Type 4A: Your coils are either fine or wiry with the circumference of a crochet needle. They're still dense and springy with a notable S pattern.
Use natural emollients with a thicker consistency, such as shea butter, to get the most out of your twist-outs or wash-and-go styles after you wash.
Type 4B: Instead of coiling or curling, you have hair that bends in sharp angles. They look quite a bit like the letter Z. The curl is tighter and far less defined, having the circumference of an ink pen.
The strands range from wiry and coarse to fine and thin. Pre-poo using coconut oil to retain your scalp's natural chemistry.
Type 4C: You have hair as densely packed as 4B, just with less definition as well as more shrinkage. The hair texture, which is tightly coiled like all Type 4s, ranges from super fine and soft to coarse and wiry. It's incredibly delicate hair. Try using a humectant with a creamy consistency as a leave-in product.
Source: Hair Type Chart: How to Find Your Curl Pattern with Pictures from Curl Centric by Kenneth Byrd
The Method
What is the LOC or LCO method?
LOC stands for lotion (or leave-in conditioner), oil, cream. This is the order in which you should add your post-wash products. Some will also opt for the LCO method (leave-in conditioner, cream, oil). Finally, the LOCG method includes adding a gel after these products which is intended to help you retain moisture. Natural hair is happiest when it's healthy, and all hair is healthiest when it's balanced and packed with hydration.
With low porosity hair, the cuticle of the hair shaft is extremely closed. (Wondering what low porosity hair is? We got you.) This doesn't allow much room for water to come into the hair shaft. This means that anything that creates a barrier between the hair and water only makes it more difficult to fully hydrate the hair. For this reason, layering your water-based hair products on before the oil helps them fully absorb into the hair. Sealing natural hair with lighter oils like Jojoba Oil and Argan Oil is ideal - you can even spray on a hair oil to damp hair with a spray bottle for light coverage all over. These oils both absorb to aid moisture retention while washing off easily to keep your hair prepped to receive moisture.
Those with high porosity, healthy hair have the opposite need. High porosity hair absorbs water easily, but it also loses water quickly. This hair type benefits from heavier oils such as Olive Oil, Castor Oil, and Avocado Oil. Using a heavier oil will seal in hydration to prevent it from escaping the hair shaft. A water-based Styling Cream that contains yummy hair oils hydrates while it seals.
LOC Method (Recommended for High Porosity Hair)
Leave-In Conditioner
Using a water-based leave-in conditioner with humectants such as honey, aloe, and hydrolyzed vegetable protein will help the water absorb deeper into hair strands by attracting moisture. When it contains hair oils, it can also act as a sealant to the water and moisture already within wet hair that was achieved through washing and conditioner.
Oil
Think of a pot of boiling water that you don't want to boil over. Adding a little bit of oil to the top prevents the water from escaping. Why? Because oil sits on top of the water to seal it in. The same is true for your hair. The key is to use hair oils that provide the best benefit for your natural hair. (We'll get into this in just a moment.)
Cream
This is the hair product step that could potentially be applied before or after your oil, based on your hair type. Experiment with which order works best for you. A water-based hair styling cream like PATTERN's that contains various hair oils can provide optimal versatility. Depending on your hair type's needs, the cream could potentially draw in more moisture into the hair, just like the leave-in conditioner, if it contains humectants such as Shea Butter. It could also act as a sealant to that moisture if it contains an ingredient with occlusive properties such as Coconut Oil. The ideal order for your hair could potentially be based on your hair porosity.
LCO Method (Recommended for Low Porosity Hair)
Leave-In Conditioner
Cream
Oil
LOCG Method
Leave-In Conditioner
Oil
Cream
Gel
Source: Everything to Know About the LOC Method from Pattern by Tracee Ellis Ross
Black Owned Hair Brands
Carol's Daughter
tgin (Thank God It's Natural)
UNCLE FUNKY's DAUGHTER
Miche Beauty
Curls
Youtube Videos on Natural Black Haircare
Adanna Madueke
Websites on Black Hair
Websites the focus on black haircare from washing to styling and everything in between. Build your haircare regimen and confidence one day at a time.
The Mane Objective
Link to Site: https://www.maneobjective.com
I'm the owner of this lil' slice of internet at the intersection of natural hair and healthy living. I'm obsessed with hair products, natural skincare, heavy lifting, kitchen experiments, and sneakers.
In the Community
Bbeautiful Children's Foundation for Ethnic Haircare
This provider says that they are temporarily closed, I'm not sure if that's just because of COVID-19 or if there is something else. The website is still active and shows that they plan on returning.
Rare Naturals Hair Sanctuary's mission is to provide a clean, sustainable, eco friendly green spa environment, which will empower ALL men & women through gaining knowledge, confidence, and tools to care for their own hair, no matter the texture.
Appointments booked online
Appointments booked online